Tuesday, January 13, 2009

When it rains...


Red brick sand covered the streets after the rain stopped. The sand turns roads into beaches. Cars blast through large areas of deep muddy water drenching people on the side of the road. Nobody cares. It’s time to ride a bike.

Within two minutes my feet, legs and back, my teeth were covered in red mud. As I pedaled the gears ground that annoying chalkboard sound of sand and chain. I was on the coast road. Every breath I took was filled with the smell of fish and garbage. It’s in piles, scattered, it’s strung out like it fell from the sky. An overcrowded micro-bus grazes my right shoulder. Heads and arms hung out its windows, everyone was yelling something. Were they yelling at me? I wasn’t sure. With my heart pounding I stopped to think.

“Let’s go”, I said to myself. Continuing north on my left were colors of red, yellow and pale green. Some were dwellings. Some were tiny shops with people lying around sleeping. On my right were the choppy waters of the shallow Indian Ocean, grey from the overcast. Palm trees, coconut husks, a cupboard sized stand with a woman selling warm Coke. Her head turned with me as I rode by, she had a large red wrap on her head and hollowed face. I could feel her staring at me. A part of me wanted to stop. Stop and ask her questions about her family. Does she have children? Did she make her makeshift wood cupboard? How often do you eat? Where did you get your beautiful brown eyes?

I wanted to stop but I kept riding.

Up ahead were two Policia on dirt bike motorcycles. They were waiting off the side of the road. I was sure they were waiting for me. Both had automatic weapons strapped to their shoulders. Both were smoking. My papers and Passport were back in my room. My heart pounded again. I tipped my hat and waved a peace sign as I pedaled by. Why not? “Keep pedaling”, I thought. Pedal with purpose. Pedal like you belong here. So I did past naked children sitting in puddles, young girls walking in threes, and chiseled muscular men on the South East African shoreline. I pedaled past a white Casino with an empty parking lot and a Mother holding out her hands to feed the glassy eyed child she held in her arms. I moved through grass roofed huts where young boys pointed toy guns at a skinny white cat. I heard laughter from behind broken blue walls. I just kept going.

When I passed through the guarded gates where I live, I felt the separation return, the sterile part of being an outsider.


pw




Monday, January 12, 2009

Love is a warm gun

I have a curious fascination with authority.

pw

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Definitions

On time: An event that takes place sometime in a 24hr period.
Communication: A person who yells and waves their arms; veins pop on forehead.
Business: An activity that exists to create paperwork.
Paperwork: What everyone's real job is.
Aircraft Maintenance: Unclear.
Water park: City when it rains.
Straight Shooter: Unclear.
Our Van driver: Someone who speeds vehicle up to hit other people. A game we think.
Airline Schedule: Symbols written on scratch paper at end of day.
Bobble Head: What my head does as I wait for something to happen.
Sore neck: What I get when my head bobbles for too long because nothing ever happens.
Cat: It's what's will be for dinner unless I get to a store soon.
Filah de Puta: Portuguese swear word.

pw

"When it's hot, water is coming."



Rock star Jorge looks pretty good in a "Air force One" cap and black SR71 jacket. Something about the look says "Authority", which is a very big deal here in Africa. It matters little if you know anything about what you are an authority of. It just matters that you're the boss. Rock star Jorge does know a thing or two about Mozambican weather though. As we took off from steamy hot Maputo yesterday morning he looked left, then right and said, "When it's hot, water is coming". On our return to Maputo 3hrs later we landed in a monsoon of rain, the kind of rain suited for submarines. I tip may hat to Rock star. The man can call the weather.

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Wheels of freedom


Compound living has its ups and downs. (Just ask David Karesh). On the up side after each flight you come back to the same familiar place. The down side is the same as the up side. Add in the fact that the "Provided" transportation for us is a van ride to the aeroporto, there are no public buses or amenities close by, and there are issues being out at night.....well, you can feel pretty caged up.
I assumed moving around would be a lot easier. It hasn't been so far.
So the American that's used to doing and going wherever he wants
(Free Range Chicken) didn't want to surrender a certain right he was born with. The right to roam.
"Onde fica bike shop in Maputo?" I asked the compound desk lady with flowing Rasta braids. In broken english her reply was, "NO!". Feeling that maybe something was lost in translation I asked again, "Onde fica place that just sells Bikes. Only bikes. Bikes only please. Maputo, city...place shop... bike only thing....two wheels....pedal...?" "Maputo city no sell bike," was her reply. "Merde", I thought to myself. Merde is a Portuguese swear word. As I turned to leave she said, "Go to big store down street they sell you bike". Alrighty then!
The big store down the street is basically a Mozambican Target. Target has bikes and so did this place. Most of the bikes were tiny, built for circus people. There are no circuses here so they are probably built for kids. (Kids make extraordinary circus people). There was one oddly shaped blue one in the corner. It was a mountain bike with an "EXTREME POWER" sticker on the side, cool looking shocks, and no tassels. Its odd shape was due to the fact it was the only adult bike there. "Its mine", I told the MTTSE. (Mozambican Target type store employee).
After an hour of putting it together it almost rides correctly. It has questionable Chinese welds but that's OK. Freedom is at hand.

pw

Random Images






The other Chairman of the Board, and me trying to act cool on the streets of Maputo.

Hey Jeff Renner, will it snow in Maputo?




The last two days have been hot in Maputo. How hot? You could fry an egg on a dirt sidewalk, cook a chicken in your car, or bust out some flapjacks on the hood of Pedro's Beamer. When it's like this everyone heads to the beach. Thousands lined the shore wading in the murky shallow water. A lot of dudes running around in Hanes underwear with a fifth of Jack Daniels in hand. Liquor flows freely here it seems. Hard liquor stands are all over town.
This picture shows a medium sized crowd. Larger crowds were just up the beach that stretched for miles and miles.